Drone frame generator

Pick a size class and the frame fills in typical motor, stack and camera sizes. Change the shape, wheelbase, arms and mounts, and it checks that your props will not hit each other.

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How it works

A frame in four steps

  1. Choose a size. From 65 mm and 75 mm whoops through 2″ to 7″ long range. The typical wheelbase and parts fill in.
  2. Pick the shape. True X, stretched or squashed X, H frame, deadcat to keep props out of view, or ducted whoop.
  3. Match your parts. Motor bolt pattern, flight stack spacing, standoffs, camera size and angle, and battery strap slots.
  4. Print and build. The frame, top plate and camera mount print flat. The generator lists the prop gap and wheelbase.
Printing it

Settings that work

Material

PA-CF (carbon-filled nylon) or PETG survive crashes far better than PLA. TPU is great for whoop ducts and bumpers.

Strength

Print with 4–6 walls and 50–100% infill. Arms thicker than on a carbon frame make up for the softer plastic.

Expect spares

A printed frame is perfect for learning, cinewhoops and quick repairs. Keep spare arms printed for hard crashes.

Questions

Drone frames FAQ

Can a printed frame really fly?

Yes, especially small whoops, toothpicks and cinewhoops. Larger frames fly well but are heavier and flexier than carbon fibre.

How does the prop check work?

It measures the gap between every pair of props and warns you, with the wheelbase you need, if they come closer than your minimum.

What is a deadcat frame?

The front arms are swept wide and back so the props stay out of the camera view.

Which motor pattern do I have?

Most 2204–2207 motors use 16 × 16 mm M3; bigger motors use 19 × 19 mm; 1103–1204 use 9 × 9 mm M2; tiny whoop motors use three holes.

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